Food, water, firearms, ammunition, knives, a compass, fire starters, toilet paper, etc., are just a few things that many ‘preppers’ think of for long term survival or bugging out. The focus of this site being heavily oriented twards the role of what some consider a relatively dirty round, gun cleaning should be considered. It is often overlooked, even by people who advocate mostly firearms for ‘survival.’ As almost every gun owner knows, gun cleaning and maintenance goes hand-in-hand with shooting itself.
Homemade gun products, including gun oil/lube, solvent, bullet lube, case lube, etc., have been an interest of mine for some time. There are many detractors based on cost (many of them have the money to spend $90 on a gallon of CLP-7), some who just believe that it’s best to trust the commercial products on the market today, and those who just don’t believe that an ordinary person can concoct a product that is comparable to commercial products.
There are many reasons someone would want to make their own gun oil/lube. One reason might be for the sheer economy of it. This concoction costs around $6.50 per quart (or $26 per gallon), not including the container/s, which is much less than one can expect to pay for the same amount of commercial gun oil. Another reason is to have quantities that can be stored in quantity, as every ‘prepper’ with firearms should do, who is preparing for the possibility of a long term situation where goods and services might be interrupted. And yet another reason could be the sheer pride of having done it themselves.
Stroker Ace’s Homemade Gun Oil/Lubricant
- 2 Parts Automatic Transmission Fluid with Dexrol III
- 2 Parts K-1 Kerosene
- 1 Part Mobile 1 0w-40 Synthetic Motor Oil
- 1/2 Tube Graphite Powder (optional)
This makes a crimson red mixture with the graphite suspended giving the mixture somewhat of a dark turbidity. The graphite seems to stay suspended fairly well by itself, but should be stirred or shaken before use should you choose to add graphite to your mixture as it will slowly settle in the container. The mixture has about the same viscosity as RemOil and can be made more or less viscous by changing the weight and amount of synthetic motor oil.
The photo on the right shows the gun oil with only a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and kerosene, but it does show how mixing in a clear mason jar, with predefined liquid measurements on the side, is a convenient container for mixing the formula.
There are a few different ways commercial lubricants are dispensed, one being aerosols, another being trigger sprayers, and another being the tilting spout like those found on RemOil bottles. The aerosols and trigger sprayers are less precise and tend to be more wasteful than that of the direct contact application of the tilting spout bottles, so it was decided to attempt to use that type of container for dispensing this mixture.
The only container that was immediately available to have this type of spout was an empty 5oz bottle of Ronsonol. It also can be had in an 8oz bottle with the same method of dispensing. Carefully pry the top off of the container with a flat head screwdriver, working around the edges, making sure not to apply too much pressure as to damage or break the container or spout. Plenty of flushing and cleaning with piping hot tap water is needed to make sure that an empty bottle is truly cleaned out. Additionally, a couple of days of air drying in the upside down position is also needed to make sure there is no water remaining in the bottle.
Pouring into such a small opening proved to be difficult, even with the aid of a kerosene lantern funnel. Prepare to make a mess. Have plenty of paper or cloth towels ready to clean up any spillage. It is also difficult to determine when the container is reaching the full mark, so don’t hurry the pouring process. Take time to periodically stop, and assess how full (or empty) the container is.
Bugging out was also a consideration in making this gun oil. There were not commercial options that were appealing enough to have a gun oil that would be stored for a time and hopefully rotated out, but possibly forgotten about, in the quantity desired. The quantity that was chosen was the quantity that would fit into a half side of an old Soviet oil tin (like come with a Mosin Nagant Rifle). This provides a time-tested, durable container for transporting both solvent and lubricant in a compact container. The same care should be used when filling this container, and a flashlight will probably also be necessary to determine the level of oil in the container.
Care should always be taken in labeling the contents of your containers. A Ronsonol container should have a piece of duct tape over the label with the contents clearly marked with a permanent marker. Even the ‘bug-out container’ chosen should be clearly marked. Here you can see the the oil tin has been labeled with an electric pencil to show which compartment contains what.
As always, great care should be taken when mixing any chemicals. Always mix outdoors, away from structures. Keep the components to me mixed away from the actual mixing container. Always be aware of the compatibility of chemicals to be mixed. If your mixture starts to warm or heat up, or starts to let off any fumes get away quickly. Always make sure the container you chose is compatible with the chemicals. Always wear gloves and eye protection.
To sum it up, you too can make your own quality gun oil, in whatever quantity you desire, for whatever reason you desire. As always, be safe, smart, and have fun.
Information provided in this website is intended to be for informational purposes only. This site is provided “as is.” I do not guarantee or warranty the correctness, completeness, or quality of the information provided. Liability claims regarding damage caused by the use of any information provided, including any kind of information which is incomplete or incorrect, will therefore be rejected. I shall not be liable for any damages that have been caused by or in connection with the use of this site.